So, as I come up with these things , I'll post them here.
WARNING:
THESE ARE ONLY IDEAS THAT HAVE NOT BEEN TESTED! NEITHER I, NOR BIBBY TEAM WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR HARDWARE, OR TO YOU, BY YOUR ATTEMPTING THESE
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Here is one to start with:

Multi-Battery pack switcher.
Platform: Variable (PS3 controller used for this idea)

Parts:
1 Altoids tin
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Altoids-Set-of-21-EMPTY-Altoid-Tins-/151486644278?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23454ec036 (Okay, 21, but I can get these things at the store too, since I love these candies.)

6 PS3 controller batteries:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2X-3-7v-1800mAh-Battery-Pack-for-Sony-PS3-controller-/350670465878?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a596ab56

SEVERAL 6-pin switches:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-PCS-DPDT-ON-ON-MINI-SLIDE-SWITCH-125V-AC-3-AMP-6-PIN-TOGGLE-AR-210-/311012648239?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4869cc652f&vxp=mtr (Assuming 6-7)

Wire:
(all over the place)

A strong adhesive and/or strong velcro:
(Likely in the crafts isle at Walmart)


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This is a relatively simple mod, Tie all batteries into the switchers so that one side passes to the next switch, while the other connects to the battery input.

Board |Pass > Batt | Pass > Batt | Pass > Batt | Pass > Batt | Pass > Batt | Pass > Batt | Pass >
When all switches are on one side, the unit will not receive power, but if any one is on Batt, it will.
Potential to create a severe overload/ electrical fire in the connected unit, and/or batteries, be extra careful with configuration.

Neat. I'd be too worried to try making something like this given the risks. Sounds like something nice for when a wired setup of whatever you'd do this to isn't an option (or is an option, but a bad one.)

Edit: That typo of mine made no sense.
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Edited by: Miles, Nov 23rd, 2014 @ 5:11 pm

There is likely a safer configuration that I have laid out here, I just need to find some way to configure it properly so that if one battery is enabled, the next in line is disabled, and cannot be enabled until the one in front is disabled.

Either that, or a single switch that supports all channels that I'm trying to operate.

NES sound mod concept. (Theory)
Isolating all sound channels

Noted problems:
Flying blind
Just plain being wishful
Minimal planning
After research, would likely involve cartridge modifications, in addition to NES sound chip modifications.
No information available on the NES sound chip pinouts, or how the channels are processed, except for a single sawtooth channel.
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This idea is rather raw, and I have absolutely no idea how it might be pulled off.

The base concept behind this, is that if the sound channels could be isolated, they could be processed remotely to give some new effects, in addition to single channel recording, which may make MIDI conversion easier.
May also work with the same idea as Rocksmith, where it detects what note is played and registers that note in-game. Conversion to MIDI from that should be a relatively simple task, assuming the software exists anyway.
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Edited by: The_Shadow, Nov 24th, 2014 @ 10:59 am

I know there's a program that can dump NSF files from NES games, and another program that converts NSFs to MIDIs, although I've never had much luck using them.

I may walk you through them at some point, they are rather simple... save for one comp I owned that it refused to work on.

FC Mobile II, Enabling Famicom additional Sawtooth channel:
http://hackaday.com/2012/09/22/adding-famicom-audio-channles-to-an-nes-without-messing-up-the-console/ Based largely on this mod, I was able to pull this off without modifying the cartridge.

Considering the actual tutorial page has exceeded it's bandwidth limit for this month, I was forced to probe the pinouts on the cartridge slot on my own, but I eventually found it!
1 single line, jumped to the center lead-in of the volume control potentiometer piped the sawtooth sound channel into the speakers, but exceedingly loud.

After splicing in 6 74k resistors, I was able to get the sawtooth volume down to an acceptable level.
(I'm sure that there is a better way to do this, but this is just what I had on hand.)

After getting the wires in place, I shoved my Everdrive N8 in, and tested a few things.

Akumojou Densetsu (Famicom)
Dracula II (FDS)
Dokidoki Panic (FDS)
Zelda II: Link no bouken (FDS)
Zelda no Densetsu - The Hyrule Fantasy (FDS)
Metroid (FDS)

All were able to output the audio that I just piped in. albeit a bit loud on FDS games.
in light of this, I may eventually swap out the resistors for a potentiometer.

Otherwise, I would say that this was more than successful.

Edit: potentiometer installed,
a bit awkward, though otherwise far more functional than a sequence of resistors.

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Edited by: The_Shadow, Nov 27th, 2014 @ 12:23 am

This is really neat. Any chance you'd have a photo of the work you did?

Also, I'm surprised just how much nicer the Japanese version sounded.

I'll see what I can do, though I won't lie, it is quite messy, with liquid tape all over the place, and I'm currently gluing the casing shut.

Although, perhaps I can get some video to show that I did indeed make it work?


If it looks dark, the edits to counter darkness have not yet taken effect.

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Edited by: The_Shadow, Nov 27th, 2014 @ 8:54 pm

In light of the sawtooth mod on the FCMobile II
I did this to my NES, though unlike that, I didn't have to open up the console, and superglue it shut afterwards.





Same deal, the potentiometer controls the sawtooth sound channel volume, allowing me to pinpoint the exact volume that the Famicom put out.